Fei’s Cafe, a hole in the wall firmly entrenched in a section of the International District that feels disingenuous to call anything other than “The War Zone,” is the very definition of a “mom and pop” operation. Pop is in the back, furiously slaving over some sizzling woks. Mom is out front taking orders from customers. There are about five tables in the whole joint. The only drink they serve is water. The decor isn’t what you call “upscale.” (The outside paint job still advertises birria.) E is definitely an SL here, so you can’t really ask questions. Just point at the menu and pray. (Yes, that’s braised pork trotters and spicy bullfrog on the menu.) But when the dishes hit the cafeteria-style table, you’ll know you’re in one of the most authentic Sichuan Chinese restaurants in the 505. Although everything is tasty as hell, the plate I can never avoid ordering here is the typhoon shelter pork ribs ($22): tiny cross-cut riblets, lightly spiced, deep fried and covered in a mountain of fried garlic, black beans, scallions and panko flakes. Root around in that pile and start pulling out the treasure! Everything here comes “family” style, a heaping bowl of one foodstuff – so you might want to grab a side dish. The ribs pair perfectly with the dry-fried green beans ($15). Addictive stuff! But do yourself a favor and don’t attempt this solo, as the portions are mammoth.

The front of a Chinese restaurant.
(Photo by Devin O’Leary)
  • Fei’s Cafe
  • 200 Wyoming Blvd. NE
  • Sun.-Sat. 10am-8pm

Chinese food

More Asian for the cravin’

Chopstix

Another great mom-and-pop Chinese spot. Huge menu includes plenty of fresh-made faves and some adventurous new choices.

6001 Lomas Blvd. NE

Sun. 11am-8pm, Tue.-Thu. 11am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-9pm

ABC Noodle House & Cajun Seafood 

All your favorite American Chinese faves, plus crab/shrimp/crawfish boils.

8720 Menaul Blvd. NE

Sun. 11am-9:30pm, Mon.-Thu. 10:30am-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 10:30am-10pm

Great China 

Huge boba tea menu, with plenty of inexpensive lunch combos.

3325 San Mateo Blvd. NE

Mon.-Thu. 11am-9pm, Fr.-Sat. 11am-9:30pm

Fan Tang

Popular for pan-Asian bowls filled with rice or noodles and your choice of Mongolian/curry/Thai/sweet-and-sour/etc. proteins.

3523 Central Ave. NE

Sun. 12pm-9pm, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm

Happy Garden

Egg rolls, wonton soup, fried rice: all your favorites with a special emphasis on classics like chop suey and egg foo young.

13170 Central Ave. SE

Sun. 11am-8:45pm Tue.-Sat 11am-8:45pm

Chen’s Chinese Restaurant

Reasonably priced family joint with everything from kung pao chicken to Szechuan eggplant to sweet-and-sour pork.

235 Juan Tabo NE

Mon.-Thu. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-9:30pm

East Ocean Restaurant

Long-running sit-down restaurant with a wide selection of Chinese seafood (scallops, shrimp, lobster).

3601 Carlisle Blvd. NE

Sun. 3pm-9pm, Tue.-Sat. 11am-9pm

Ho Lo Ma

Unassuming, old-school Chinese eatery serving classis such as kung pao chickens, chow mein and Hunan pork. Chinese “family style dinners” a specialty. 

Neo Szechuan Asian Kitchen

Craving something spicy? Look for the chili peppers on the menu at this generously portioned eatery.

7200 Montgomery Blvd. NE

Sun.-Sat. 11am-9pm

Lulu’s Kitchen

Casual Downtown eatery with quick service and tasty lunch combos like Hong Kong-style fried rice, twice-cooked pork and curry chicken.

315 Gold Ave. SW

Mon.-Fri. 11am-9pm

Sat. 3pm-9pm


Devin D. O'Leary is an editor with The Paper. and nm.news. He served as film/television editor at Weekly Alibi for 28 years and he has produced four feature films here in New Mexico.

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