Fei’s Cafe, a hole in the wall firmly entrenched in a section of the International District that feels disingenuous to call anything other than “The War Zone,” is the very definition of a “mom and pop” operation. Pop is in the back, furiously slaving over some sizzling woks. Mom is out front taking orders from customers. There are about five tables in the whole joint. The only drink they serve is water. The decor isn’t what you call “upscale.” (The outside paint job still advertises birria.) E is definitely an SL here, so you can’t really ask questions. Just point at the menu and pray. (Yes, that’s braised pork trotters and spicy bullfrog on the menu.) But when the dishes hit the cafeteria-style table, you’ll know you’re in one of the most authentic Sichuan Chinese restaurants in the 505. Although everything is tasty as hell, the plate I can never avoid ordering here is the typhoon shelter pork ribs ($22): tiny cross-cut riblets, lightly spiced, deep fried and covered in a mountain of fried garlic, black beans, scallions and panko flakes. Root around in that pile and start pulling out the treasure! Everything here comes “family” style, a heaping bowl of one foodstuff – so you might want to grab a side dish. The ribs pair perfectly with the dry-fried green beans ($15). Addictive stuff! But do yourself a favor and don’t attempt this solo, as the portions are mammoth.

- Fei’s Cafe
- 200 Wyoming Blvd. NE
- Sun.-Sat. 10am-8pm
Chinese food
More Asian for the cravin’
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